Capital of the canton and historic heart of the Munster Valley
Population: 5125 inhabitants (source INSEE 2006)
Area: 878 ha
Historical presentation
An abbey
Munster gradually grew up around the Benedictine abbey founded around 660 at the confluence of the two Fechts. This abbey was dedicated to Saint Gregory, hence the old name of Val-Saint-Grégoire for the valley. In 1235, one of the abbots gave two-thirds of his jurisdiction rights to Emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, who quickly passed them on to the inhabitants a short time later. In 1308, the town was surrounded by ramparts; it joined forces with nine other villages in the valley to form the community of Val and the City of Munster, or the community of Val-Saint-Grégoire, the same year, which lasted until 1847.
Victim of several fires in the Middle Ages, Munster entered the Decapolis in 1354. Between 1542 and 1559, three quarters of the inhabitants converted to the Protestant Reformation and, in 1575, by the Treaty of Kientzheim, the monastery recognized the freedom of confession of the inhabitants, and agreed to pay the pastor of Munster.
Troubled period
The Thirty Years' War (1618-1648) was one of the most tragic periods in the history of the town and the valley. A cascade of misfortunes befell the inhabitants: soldiers, famine, epidemics and harsh climate considerably reduced their numbers. In 1652, the Lorrainers came to wreak havoc again. In 1659, the first French abbot, Dom Charles Marchant, came to occupy the abbey seat. The badly damaged abbey was rebuilt between 1682 and 1686, with the exception of the abbey palace, which was completed between 1786 and 1789.
In the 25th century, the inhabitants rebelled several times against the authority of the royal praetor, refusing to pay taxes and to swear an oath to the new constitution. On July 1789, XNUMX, the Munsterian Bastille (the Town Hall) was stormed by the inhabitants of the great valley. The XNUMXth century was that of industrialization and modernization, of the opening of the city to the outside world.
Modern times
In 1860 the Schlucht road was opened. The Munster-Colmar railway line built in 1868 was extended in 1893 to Metzeral. On the eve of the First World War, Munster had 6000 inhabitants; it was a prosperous city, thanks to industry and tourism. Since 1871, it has also been an important customs center due to its proximity to the Franco-German border on the Vosges ridge.
During the First World War, Munster suffered daily bombardments and at the end of August 1915 the inhabitants were evacuated. Munster was 85% destroyed. The day after the armistice of 1918, reconstruction began.
Occupied on June 18, 1940 by the German army, it was liberated on February 5, 1945.
The city today
Munster benefits from the extraordinary appeal of the landscapes that surround it and which are an undeniable tourist capital. The difficulties encountered in recent years by the textile industry led the city to create, from 1971, a craft and industrial zone in the eastern district, along the Munster-Colmar road.
The marketplace
This is the historic heart of the city. In its immediate vicinity the abbey was founded. To the north stands the Town Hall, whose façade dates from 1550. This is where the community council met. Beautiful Renaissance façade, surmounted by the double-headed eagle, which recalls Munster's former membership of the Holy Roman Empire. On the entrance door, the coat of arms of Munster evokes the stylized façade of a Romanesque church. Inside, several sculpted stones come from the old abbey church.
Opposite the Town Hall, there is still part of the old abbey palace dating from 1789. It is pierced by a passage that provides access to the ruins of the old cloister. There is little left of the abbey: a few arcades dating from the end of the XNUMXth century, a wing of the abbey palace, and the prelates' building. Located next to the ruins of the cloister, the latter currently houses the Ballons des Vosges Regional Nature Park and the Munster Valley Tourist Office. Particularly worth seeing is a beautiful Gothic door in the cloister wall.
On the Market Square, the Lion Fountain was erected in 1576 by the Munsterians following the Treaty of Kientzheim which recognised the freedom of confession of the inhabitants of the valley. Oral tradition tells that, whenever the town was in conflict with the abbot, it turned the lion in such a way that it showed its posterior to the abbey, which put the abbot in a black rage…
The Grand Rue and the Laub building
The Grand-rue, the city's main shopping street, has been completely renovated and gives an idea of the city's dynamism.
Parallel to the Grand-rue, rue St-Grégoire is home to the Salle de la Laub. This building, with arcades, was originally located on the Place du Marché. It was dismantled and rebuilt at its current location in 1867-1869. The cornerstone from 1503 recalls the date of construction. It served as a covered market, a meeting place for representatives of the community. It was from the top of its staircase that the decisions and decrees of the council were announced.
The churches
The imposing Protestant church of Munster, built from 1867 to 1873, in pink sandstone in a neo-Romanesque style, can be seen from afar and marks the Munster landscape. On the south side, three tombstones leaning against the wall recall the memory of former inhabitants of Munster. Opposite the Protestant church stands the Catholic church dedicated to Saint Léger. Built on the site of a chapel dating from the 1874th century, it was used for Catholic and then Protestant worship, then for both denominations in the form of a simultaneum, before returning to Catholic worship in XNUMX.
Opposite the stork tower, on the market square, dating from 1872, you can see a house whose upper part is enhanced with half-timbering. It dates from 1572 and is one of the oldest houses in Munster. Rue des Clefs, is "s'Musikhisla", a small house dating from the end of the 1984th century and which served as a guardhouse for one of the Hartmann factories which was located next door. Not far away, you will find the stork enclosure. Indeed, since XNUMX, Munster has been one of the stork reintroduction centers in Alsace.
André Hartmann Park
Take a left from the Protestant church and go up Rue Sébastopol towards the station, whose building dates from 1868.
Near the station, visit the André Hartmann park created under the magistracy of Frédéric Hartmann (1857-880). Next to the central kiosk, there is a granite rock bearing a bronze effigy of Frédéric Kirschleger, a Munster botanist (1804-1869).
Albert Schweitzer Park and Fecht Park
It is located opposite the Place de la Salle des Fêtes near the Espace Culturel Saint-Grégoire. As you pass, admire the 1th century pink sandstone fountain. Originally, it was located in the old English garden of the Hartmanns. Miraculously spared by the First World War, it was moved in 1919. In addition to the calm that reigns there, the Parc Albert Schweitzer is adorned with statues: the sphinx statues purchased in 1815 by Frédéric Hartmann and the griffins, guardians of treasures... Further on, is the Parc de la Fecht, whose pond is bordered by a statue of Neptune. Not far from there is the Piscine de Munster, the large nautical complex of the Vallée de Munster.
The Hartmann Dynasty
For almost a century and a half, the Hartmanns reigned over the Munster Valley. As industrialists, patrons and influential politicians, they profoundly transformed the lives of the inhabitants, modernizing the city and opening up the valley to technical innovations.
The founder of the family was André Hartmann (1746-1837). Arriving in Munster in 1783, he joined forces with Riegé to run a textile factory. In October 1789, he was the sole owner of the factory and in 1818 he created a new company with his two sons, Frédéric and Henry: Hartmann et Fils. He was one of the first mayors of Munster.
Frédéric Hartmann-Metzger (1772-1861), eldest son of André Hartmann, was raised to the rank of peer of France in 1846. With his brother Henry, he had the Schlucht road built from 1840 to 1860.
Jacques Hartmann (1774-1839) was the founder of the Hammer spinning mill, built from 1818, and which was considered one of the most beautiful industrial buildings in Alsace.
Frédéric Hartmann (1822-1880), after studying law in Paris, came to take care of the family business in Munster. Mayor of Munster from 1857 to 1880, he modernized and expanded his city by building a new district, the Munster-Colmar railway line (1868), the Protestant temple, the nursery school and the higher school or Realschule. He was also a member of the General Council of Haut-Rhin and a protesting deputy in Bordeaux in 1871.